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Craic at the Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast

11/23/2012

12 Comments

 
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Craic (pronounced KRAK) is a term for fun, entertainment, and enjoyable conversation, particularly prominent in Ireland.1

     It was a rainy grey day in Belfast and I arrived several hours later than I had anticipated. Too much of a smooth black elixir in a comfortable Irish pub with a handful of wonderful strangers stalled my arrival. I planned to head out of Belfast immediately to tour the Giant’s Causeway, the Carrick-a-Rede and the town of Bushmills. However, since I must be off to Scotland in the morning, I’m left with no choice but to skip everything.
     With some lingering resignations of the night before, I set off from the train station and flagged down a taxicab. I offered the man additional fare if he would be willing to take me on a tour through some of Belfast’s delicate history. He was the perfect guide, thorough and passionate, while as knowledgable as any local who had lived through the mayhem that took place from around 1969 to 1994. We toured rebuilt bombing sites, original war murals, the art-laden peace wall and other various historic sites along the way.

     After an hour or so, he dropped me off at the International Youth hostel where I checked in, stored my bags and jumped into exploration of the city. I aimlessly walked around and after about three quarters of an hour, I discovered a pub that I had once read about in some obscure UK’s best pubs publication. I distinctly recognized the bar for its name and decorative wood work.
     Walking up to the doors, I noticed the ornate mosaic tile floor design of the Crown Liquor Saloon. My first thoughts once I entered through the wood and painted glass doors was that of an impactful awe of elegance, regality and beauty. Each barman was dressed to perfection in a fine black vest with a white long sleeve top and a pair of matching black slacks. Behind the bar were a few antique casks setup as they were used prior to when the modern tap system became standard. Rows of taps, pint glasses and liquor bottles ranged the shelves to complete the perfect bar of the Crown.
     The bar was lined along the left side of the building, while a cluster of ten booths which were beautifully carved in ornate Victorian lined the right. They were filled with groups of locals and the occasional tourist couple, but the rest of the pub was decisively empty, except for two heavy accented men. They were slouched against the bar, dim-eyed and reeking of scotch.
     I took a seat at the nearest stool, ordered a Swithwicks and began chatting with the barman. I spoke with him in hushed tones, discussing the two men. They had been there for hours and he was worried that he would have to attempt to muscle them out of the bar if they became any more belligerent to passersby. He told me his name was Collin and he came to Belfast from southern Wales, I proceeded to question him on the current state of Belfast’s religious tensions. Collin talked as though the eruption of violence could still happen at any moment, but overall have calmed down in the past decade.
     I visited pub after pub through the remaining two weeks of my backpacking trip from Dublin to Amsterdam and the Crown is by far the most beautiful of them all. However, if you’re looking for raucous, high-energy nightlife, you’d do better to tour London, Leeds or Glasglow.

1 Wikipedia
(Photo by © Brandon Elijah Scott / Eye & Pen)
12 Comments
Joyce_j
11/23/2012 03:14:52 pm

very interesting ! through your eye & pen i travelled with you to Belfast. I saw Belfast with a new eye. Thank you Brandon:)

Reply
Brandon Elijah Scott link
2/4/2014 09:50:36 pm

Thank you! You are most welcome. Isn't it beautiful?

Reply
Boyd Lemon link
11/24/2012 07:39:34 pm

I have visited Ireland 4 times, but never ventured to the north (It wasn't safe up there when I first went.) This article really makes me want to go. Good job, well written.

Reply
Brandon Elijah Scott link
2/4/2014 09:51:30 pm

Where in Norther Ireland were you interested in visiting?

Reply
Mike Pitt link
11/24/2012 08:27:26 pm

Keep up the good work, Brandon. Best regards, Mike Pitt

Reply
Brandon Elijah Scott link
2/4/2014 09:52:42 pm

:) Will do captain! Thank you so much for taking the time to comment such kind words on this post. It really means a lot to me.

Reply
Donna Reilly link
11/26/2012 02:43:20 am

I live in Athlone, Ireland and the Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast is definitely a good craic, having been here myself once or twice. Thanks for this wondeful write up and in Irish Go raibh maith agat.

Reply
Brandon Elijah Scott link
2/4/2014 09:53:49 pm

You are most welcome. How do you like living in Athlone. I would imagine it would be a little slice of pie.

Reply
Mark
11/27/2012 02:18:32 am

Lived in Belfast ally life and NEVER been into the crown bar!

Think I may have to try the food!!

Reply
Brandon Elijah Scott link
2/4/2014 09:56:16 pm

You have never been to the crown bar, and you live near by? haha. Why not give it a shot? :)

Reply
Claire Gillis link
12/3/2012 08:08:43 pm

The Crown is beautiful...it may not be as high energy as some UK cities but it does have its own little scene......just maybe not as in your face as in some other cities.

Reply
Brandon Elijah Scott link
2/4/2014 09:57:35 pm

The crown is very beautiful. It does have some energy, just not pulsating energy like some of the other cities in the UK.

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